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Tomato Man's Tips

Darrell Merrell

Seed saver, specialty grower, and ITG member, Darrell Merrell introduced Royal Hillbilly in 1997. He developed it from a selection of a tomato named Hillbilly that was given to him by Ruth Marcum of Collinsville, Oklahoma. Ruth received her seeds from her brother Ralph Miller of Ohio. The seeds that Merrell received grew out three different tomatoes. Through selection, he stabilized one to a tomato with a deep, deep pink color that borders on burgundy with a purplish or violet tinge. The flavor is a complex blend of sweet and tart, snappy yet smooth. 

Dirt is one of Darrell Merrell's passions. Asked the secret of growing great tomatoes, his answer is simple and direct: 

It's in the soil! It's in the soil! It's in the soil!  It all begins with your soil. You will not have a good crop of tomatoes without soil high in humus and with the proper balance of nutrients. Compost added to your garden plot year after year will supply all the nutrients needed. The first year you may wish to add some nutrients to each planting hole: one tablespoon blood meal for Nitrogen;  one cup bone meal for Phosphorus; one cup greensand or a handful of wood ashes for Potassium; and one tablespoon of Epsom salts for Magnesium and Sulfur.

After a decade of this kind of treatment, Darrell's Tulsa, Oklahoma dirt grows some fine 'maters. What's he do with the overflow? Each Spring he sells more than 20,000 tomato transplants from his front yard!

Raconteur, entrepreneur, and unfailingly generous with his time, talents, and tomato expertise, people come from all over Oklahoma and surrounding states to learn and talk tomatoes with "The Tomato Man" as Darrell is known in Tulsa. Whenever somebody asks for "The Secret" to growing good tomatoes, he reminds them that there are no one-size-fits-all recipes. Just the experiences of gardeners. Darrell is one of the finest, and his common-sense and sustainable tips are among the best.

 Watering:  Experts say that tomato plants need at least an inch of water per week. Water thoroughly to encourage the roots to seek water and nutrients deep in the soil. Soak to at least six to eight inches. Soaker hoses are ideal but unless attached to a water meter, the amount supplied is guesswork. Gallon containers with a hole in the bottom sunk between each tomato plant works well. Fill with a water hose twice a week. This method also gives you a chance to inspect the plants while watering. If you use an overhead watering system, water early in the day to allow the plants to dry out before nightfall. The nighttime dew is enough for the plant to cope with, and foliage too wet overnight may help some diseases. Too much water is just as bad as not enough. If the soil stays too soggy it inhibits the roots from taking up nutrients and eventually the roots will rot severely, slowing growth and even the death of the plant.
Pruning: I do not prune except towards the end of the season, late-September, when I sometimes cut off the main stems above the top blossom. This causes the plant to put its energy into ripening the tomatoes already on the vine. Pruning came into vogue in more northern, short-season climates where it makes sense. In Oklahoma the season is long enough for the "suckers" (that sprout from the stem in the crotch right above a leaf branch) to fully develop and produce tomatoes. If the "suckers" are pruned it does force the plant's energy into the one main stem, resulting in earlier ripening and larger fruit. I don't "sucker" for four reasons: a) more fruit per plant over a continuous growing season, b) more foliage provides more leaves to manufacture food for the plant, c) more foliage provides more share for the tomatoes and helps prevent "sun scald", and d) I don't have the time!
Diseases: The best cure is prevention. Plant three to four feet apart to allow good air circulation so that plants can dry after rain or morning dew. Rotate your plants each year to a new location. This helps prevent disease build up in the soil. There is no such thing as a totally disease resistant tomato, be it hybrid or O.P. Perfect tomatoes and tomato plants appear in the seed catalogs (enhanced?) but are not common in the average garden. Don't worry any more than you have to over a few brown or yellow leaves, even spotted leaves. Chances are you'll still get plenty of tomatoes.
Adaptation:  Tomatoes are the Number One plant grown in American gardens. We tend to think of them as a native plant. THEY ARE NOT. That is why we grow seedlings under artificial conditions for eight weeks or more before we transplant them. If we waited for the soil to warm sufficiently to direct seed them, most tomatoes would not be able to produce a mature fruit in most parts of the country. The tomato's native habitat is tropical and semi-tropical regions of Mexico, Central America and Western South America. They originated in Bolivia/Peru area. Climatologic problems still persist in our temperate growing zone. Most of my plants are from seeds I have saved over a number of growing seasons. They are better acclimatized to our area, which gives my plants an edge, particularly when it comes to disease resistance.

 

Copyright © 1999 Darrell Merrell. All rights reserved.
Used by permission of Darrell Merrell and except for private use it may not be reproduced in whole in in part in any format without written permission from both the author and the Internet Tomato Trials.

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Revised: November 21, 1999